穿高级时装的朋克女孩 Punk Girls wearing Couture TOMMY ZHONG 2018SS
TOMMY ZHONG善长将装置作品里呈现的艺术状态转变成有形的可穿戴服饰。本季,从Nadine Shaban艺术创作过程中使用材料的特殊方式获得启发,设计师直接利用或借助专业纺织技术,将其转化为独有的服装面料。在探讨经典审美与当代艺术的矛盾冲突中,新一季的TOMMY ZHONG尽情地探索设计的极限。带有哥特气质的晚礼服、宗教色彩的粉色套装、具有50年代腰线风格的外套,以及庄重肃穆的长款打褶衬衫裙……在经典的轮廓,舒适的线条下,演绎出矛盾冲突的现代美感。
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Nadine Shaban的艺术作品以不同的印花以及梭织技术处理,被设计师以自己的方式赋予了新的生命。TOMMY ZHONG故意将梭织线头剪断,呈现出刻意的不完美状态;经由扫描处理的模糊图像通过手工或借助机器的丝网印刷后,让这些曾被艺术家精心梳理的不规则线条呈现出被规范约束下的张力,也是由立体转变为平面的过程;由设计师自主研发的梭织面料,在雕塑轮廓的粉黑白三色拼接夹克中穿插些许亮眼的橙色,同时混凝土效果印花面料上的脆弱裂缝则展示出作品在完成与未完成之间的微妙共存关系。最终,身体被包裹于新奇的布料之下,裸露的肌肤和少女般纯洁的心灵交织于一体,一个全新的女性形象由内而外地准备就绪。
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设计师认为一位穿着高级订制服,骑着重型机车的朋克女孩,好像《龙纹身的女孩》的女主角那样,是最符合自己心目中对2018春夏季TOMMY ZHONG女孩的想象。只不过这种朋克态度仅仅只是女孩心里的不羁,并非流露于外表的叛逆。
TOMMY ZHONG Spring Summer 2018 Show Credits
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秀导:Faye Zhou
造型:White
化妆:鑫淼团队
发型:贺志国团队
音乐:Haozi
前场摄影:陈志超
摄像:Steven Feng团队
观秀明星
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